From Sandra :)

Words cannot describe the amazing results using Double Weave when Jane and amazing weavers Barbara Mitchell and David Schulz get deeper into the possibilities of Double Weave. Magic happens!!!

Hello!

I am wondering if I could weave placemat number 5 as a doublewidth blanket, and if so, what would I have to change to open up one side? I have reviewed the other doubleweave seasons, but still can't wrap my head around it...

I'm guessing I change the tie up as follows:

A block: top is 1567 and 3578 and bottom is 1235 and 1347
B block: top is 2568 and 4678 and bottom is 1246 and 2348

That way I weave top, top, bottom, bottom?

Anything I'm missing?

Thanks for your help!

Hi Wildflower,
Remember, with block double weave, you will get a horizontal join any time you exchange the layers, by bringing the bottom layer up to the top, and you will get a vertical join any time your treadling lifts just one shaft in one block (A) while lifting three shafts in the other block (B) which causes the shuttle to go on top in one block (A) while diving down to go on the bottom in the other block. (B).
So, in order to create two separate layers, you have to lift only one shaft in Block A and one shaft in Block B for the top layer, and then three shafts in Block A and three shafts in Block B for the bottom layer. This tie up is shown on page 8. This avoids creating vertical joins.
At the same time, you cannot keep the layers separate if you bring the bottom layer up to become the top layer because this will create a horizontal join. So, to keep the layers separate, you have to treadle all the way through with just one treadling block.
By keeping two separate layers, you can weave a double width blanket, but you will have all black and white on one layer, and all solid colour on the other layer (in the warp), and treadling TBBT to create a fold on one selvedge, and open selvedge on the other selvedge. (see Season 3 Episode 7 for Jane's handling of the selvedges on double width blanket.) The good news is you can choose any colour you want in the weft, so you could use black for a while, white for a while, any other colour for a while. You can create a beautiful double width blanket, but it won't look exactly the same as placemat #5.
I hope this helps.
Barbara Mitchell

Love the double weave ideas presented here. I had an ambitious idea using linen then slept on the entire lesson and realised that I need something colourful to wear to Convergence next week (as if I don't have enough already!). So I ended up pretty much following the 8 shaft brief, though substituted the colours and increased to 5 blocks across. I used a total of 3 different tie-ups, also switching around the top and bottoms to get the desired effects. This is done in 8/2 cotton. 592 ends. Magenta, turquoise, pale limette, tumeric, brick. Finished W21 1/2", L70".
Perhaps some hints: I buried inside the tabby sheds but check which tabby you use! One lift will lift 3 layers, the other only the one. You want to bury on the 1 only lift. I also cut each colour instead of carrying up. I didn't like the loop created on the selvedge.
To keep the two layers a bit together over some length, I threw a couple of B or A sided rows.

Lovely!

Could someone please explain to me what the difference between the interlocking doubleweave in Season 8 episode 7 and the block doubleweave in this episode. I can't seem to see the difference (other than the blocks). This episode is still interlocking the 2 layers from what I can see. Thank you.

Hi Beth,
In Block Double Weave we are weaving in plain weave. You get a horizontal join when you change layers, and vertical joins when you change the blocks and the weft travels in the top layer on one block then dives down to travel in the bottom layer on the other block. But, in between the joins you have pockets that you can put your finger into when lift the top layer.
In Interlocking Double Weave, you are working in twill and the two layers are "locked together" throughout the piece by the stitcher, which is circled in the tie-up on the bottom of page 3 in the 8-shaft PDF. So, one warp thread is caught and woven with the opposite layer. In this case, the layers are stitched together and you cannot put your finger into a pocket.
However, for the double width pieces, the stitcher shaft is not included in the tie-up and the layers remain separate, so the cloth can be opened up when you take it off the loom, so this is double weave, but woven with a twill on the top layer and a twill on the bottom layer.
Barbara

I modified the project to create scarves. I reduced the number of repeats in each of the color blocks and changed the colors. The results are not quite as dramatic as the original project, but I'm pretty happy with the results on the first scarf. I changed to tie-up 2 for the second scarf, so we'll see how it turns out..

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Hi Barbara -- since it looks like you are monitoring this thread, I want to tell you how much I admire your weaving. When I hear your name during show and tell, I perk up and take special note. I'm always so taken by your pieces. Your graphics and interplays of colors are exceptional.

Thanks for sharing your expertise and design abilities with us. I've enjoyed the episodes you've presented. I hope to see more of your wonderful work.

Thanks, Leslie. Your work is also amazing! I look forward to challenging myself in future episodes.

Hello Barbara or (Fellow Weavers)-
I'm looking forward to this project! I love the placemat that I did in the Season 8 doubleweave project and thought it might be fun to do this project as towels instead of placemats. But I also know that the double weave makes the fabric heavier and the 24 sett might not be right for kitchen towels. Would you suggest a different set - or should I do the project in 16/2 cotton? I did buy the kit so using the 8/2 is preferable. And by the way - I absolutely loved the scarves you made in the show-in-tell!!! That's what gave me the idea of changing the set to make a drapier fabric. Thank you! Debra

Hi Debra,
I was going to look at my draft to see what I sett my towels at, but I am away from home so couldn't access them. However, if you look at Sharon's towels in the show and tell, she sett her 8/2 towels, not boucle, at 24 ends per inch (12 per layer) and they turned out very well and are quite absorbent! If you are going to be using the boucle, then you could spread the sett out a bit, to 20 ends per inch, (10 per layer) and they should be lighter, without being sleezy. But, of course, do sample first, cut your sample off and wash it, and see which sett you prefer. Happy weaving.