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Jane addressed the issue of the top and bottom layers not matching when she did separate layers. What should one do when the top and bottom layers don’t match up after advancing the warp on a fold on one side warp? My bottom is about 2 picks longer than the top. I’m on a table loom.

Hate to admit this, but I'm on my fifth doubleweave, doublewidth blanket, working on 8 shafts with a basic 2/2 twill. Won't go into what I learned or failed to learn on the previous blankets, but my current confusion centers on removing a thread at the fold (or two?) so the weave structure continues along merrily on the bottom layer without doubled or missing threads. As for saying something nice, I can't say enough about how much I love Jane's emphasis on clean design, non-fussy weaving, and her willingness to share what she knows.

I'm planning my first double weave project and I'm not sure how I would finish the ends other than sewing a hem. I'd like to hemstitch and have a short fringe but I'm not sure if it's possible to hemstitch on a double weave / double wide project. If it can be done, can anyone point me to directions on how I'd do this? Thanks!

I did my first project using double width double weaves and I found that the bottom layer of warp lost loads of tension? I only managed to weave 1 metre length before it became unmanageable…

I’m using an 8 shaft Louet Jane table loom.
Any ideas why this might be happening and possible ways to correct it?

Many thanks 🙏

Hi Denise,
Thank you for replying even though you don’t have a resolution- I was using 16/2 cotton, so certainly not “sticky”
I also didn’t have a too tight sett ( mine was maybe too loose!!
I re-tensioned after cutting off my first weave, and actually tried sectioning it into a smaller number of warp threads, but unfortunately the same result at the end of a yard of weaving - about a foot at the end was terrible & I’ve spent today manually fixing all the floats with a needle and an embroidery hoop !! 🤦‍♀️ This was before wet finishing…

I am planning a project that I would like to do in double weave, so that I can have different front and back. This will be a reversible apron. I've sampled 8/2 cotton at 48 EPI to approximate what the cloth would be at 24 EPI per layer. My question: Is that a reasonable way to sample for double weave? (Note: this sett would be too stiff, so I would back it up to 20 EPI per layer.) I appreciate any wisdom you can throw my way!

I have the same problem as Jill is talking about. I am using Boucle yarn and loosing tension on my bottom layer after weaving about 60 cm.
Did i do something wrong? And do you have a suggestion about how to fix this?

I already posted this question below the lessons but it seems this is the proper venue for it so re-posting.
Hi JST team and Happy New Year!
I've got my warp ready for the double weave as per Jane's instructions. I have a 10 and a 12 dent reed, not the 8 recommended. I see on the substitution chart I can get 16epi on a 12 dent reed but it's 1-1-2 and the reed dents seems awfully small for the Harrisville to be 2 in a dent. Can anyone advise if using the 12 dent reed is going to be problematic and perhaps cause abrasion and breakage? What about using the 10 dent and changing the epi a tad to 15 or 17 epi?

I would like some feedback on my sample for the double width project. I see more of a division between the two sections than I would like to see. Any suggestions about how I can close this in some before proceeding on the main project? I used the method that Jane used, regarding adding some smooth yarn (I used pearl cotton) to the folded edge and then removed it after completion. (see attached photo) https://ibb.co/pLQmX31

Hi weaving friends!

I'm still a pretty novice weaver, but I'm excited to try a double width or tube project next. I think I've grasped the basic concept, but I'm a bit hung up thinking about the join.

I see the double thread issue, and get the idea of either just leaving a thread out, or pulling one/replacing one, but I think I'm missing something even more basic...

Is the problem with a join that it wants to end up looser than the rest of the cloth so you have to pay attention to keep the edge threads close enough together, or it wants to end up tighter than the rest and you have to pay attention to keep it loose enough, or some of each if you're just sloppy? I guess I'm just not sure what to be paying attention to - I suspect it's a bit of a Goldilocks situation that will make more sense once I actually try it at the loom, but thought I'd ask.

I did the edge in one colour and especially after washing i was very content. My weaving was with alpaca and the extra thread 8/2 cotton.
But my second project i did colour and weave. And even after a lot of thinking i ended up with a thread too many (after removing one). So no guarantees from my side :)
Good luck

Couldn’t wait to try this lesson, then couldn’t decide on a colour scheme from the available Harrisville wool. So…. I did it in cotton instead. Lots of good lessons learned and fairly inexpensive. I used 8/8 Cotton at 7 epi, which gave a lovely thick squishy cloth but that thick thread meant that I couldn’t do much than 4” (10cm) of weaving before my bobbin ran out and it was hard to get an invisible join, though the splicing looks better where the weft and warp were the same colour. After my 2 samples I adjusted my treadlings and got a much nicer fold for shawl/lap throw.

Can’t wait to make a double weave blanket in Harrisville next!

Beautifully done, Lisa!

Beautiful Lisa. Your color choices are simply fabulous.