Add your comments, questions and answers in this Forum thread.
Add your comments, questions and answers in this Forum thread.
Hello, I have a question. Why do you tug only one tail and then cut the other in the yellow stripes? Could I cut both tails in a sequence of two picks between ten picks?
thanks Antje
Antje - the reason Jane does these 2 pick tuck-ins that way is to secure them as well as possible and to prevent too much build-up in the selvedges. The way Jane shows us at the 6:20 mark in the video creates a less bulky but secure selvedge. You are changing colour often in plaid and you want your edges to be lined up with the plaid stripes. Hope this makes sense.
Won't the 2nd end that is hanging free off the selvedge come undone eventually? I figure you need to wash/dry the fabric once off the loom, and then you can cut the length hanging off, but won't the edge left behind eventually wiggle out of the fabric a bit?
No, it wouldn’t Julie - because you won’t cut that tail off until you fulled and dried your cloth. Just as with any end you trim - they are secure if you let all your tails full and draw-in a bit before trimming them all.
In the video on designing collapsible fabrics at a time stamp of 3:00 Jane discusses three ways to develop a collapsible fabric. In the second method she mentions over twist yarns, elastic yarns and stainless steel, however the last is not elaborated on . Unlike the elastic yarn and the overtwist I assume the stainless steel is the inactive yarn in this case and the companion yarn would need to be the active component, is this correct. So as an example I could use the stainless with the merino? I have some stainless steel and I have not used it yet, so I am searching for ideas. Any thoughts on this yarn would be appreciated, thank you.
The stainless steel is different option to bring shape to your cloth, and in this case you really shape your cloth when you wear it. You can use merino but you wouldn’t full it the same way that you do with the collapse weave scarf that Jane demonstrates, therefore … using a closer sett will give you the “drape” you want.
I'm just about to start the plaid sample. I'm really not liking the olive. Has anyone replaced it with a different green? I have a dark green (vert fonce) and a medium green (spruce??). I'm thinking of going with the medium green, but thought I'd ask if anyone had replaced the olive and how it turned out?
Had an epiphany moment! Bought a Louet folding warping mill and all of a sudden, my warp was so much easier to handle - it actually wound on to the back beam evenly even on my own! So much easier than a warping board:-)
https://ibb.co/8Mkqf3n
I am so enjoying this online course! Not sure if I’ve uploaded the photo or not but it shows two rows of hemstitching on the designing plaid warp. I’ve grown to love hemstitching and it’s such a lovely way to divide the experimental areas. I have found Jane’s instructions very clear and feel that I have learned so much already. The Fibonacci sequence is indeed a wonderful tool in deciding proportions, making those decisions less of a problem. Thank you very much for making all this available so readily.
Mary
Had fun with the plaid warp. Enjoyed mixing up the colours and incorporating repetitive sequences in there too. Scarf uses 30/2 silk as weft at same 18ppi.
Can’t get hold of 20/2 silk here in the uk at the moment!
Beautiful samples and scarf!
Fantastic!
