I just put my warp chain for season 5 episode 1 on my loom and as the images show I beamed it on to the back beam in the reverse order of the draft. What is the best way to thread the warp? Can I reverse the threading? I'm not sure how that would affect the tieup either. First time I've made this mistake and hopefully my last
turned twill season 5
Season 5 - Laces
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Hi Diane, Easy Peasy, just start threading your big wide block on 5678 and then your next stripe will be on 1234, the whites are on 5678, then 1234 for the other 2” ish stripes. . Then your tie- up and treadling will be exactly the same as on the sheet. You will have exactly the same result.
Have fun 😀
Thanks Jane. I'm finally getting back to the loom and have the warp tied on in reverse as you suggested. But i did not use a floating selvedge since you said it wasn't necessary with turned twill. I don't like the way the left selvedge looks on the loom with the small loops wrapped around the end thread. Anything I can do about this? thanks, Diane
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You have 2 choices. Add a floating selvedge or just wait and see how the selvedge straightens out after you wash them and press them as I say in the video.
So. I'm a bit stumped. I was combining Fibonacci sequence on my warp for turned twill blocks...I designed a profile draft for A's and B's. However, when my warp count was 10-20-30-50-80, there are times when threading the heddles in straight draw is NOT divisible by four. So in two areas of my warp, at 30 and 50 ends, the straight draw does not finish the four thread sequence. Should I abandon the extra two warps, add to make the numbers work or how would you move forward.
Hi Kit, this is where you let Fib guild you gently. But the structure's rules have to followed, so yes, dump those extra threads. Remember, close counts. Another way to use Fib with blocks is 1 x A, 2 x A, 3 x A, 5 x A, 8 x A, 13 x A etc.
Sometimes I start with the width of the fabric I want, find out how many warp threads I'll have, divide it by the number of threads in a unit and then you know how many units you have to play with. So many ways to approach design.
Beth Doyle
Thanks for the prompt response. I just bought a used 8H Schacht and am dressing it for my first warp as we speak. I've been using direct tie up on a table loom and can't wait to be treadling the pedals instead. I'll dump those few extras at 30 and 50. Do you think I need to re-sley? Of course you do.
Absolutley, re-sley. 😂
Kit Frost
Done
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After re-sleying and having fun with turned twill. I like to design each towel based on the patterns that are right in front of me...I can see about 8 inches from the fell line on my new floor loom. On the Schacht table loom I was only able to see about 4 inches before the cloth needed to be rolled onto the breast beam.
Darlene A. Babych
Jane Stafford
Off the loom, finished.
Cheryl Schwarz
When all are finished, washed, dried, hemmed, I find I like the broken twill "hand" the least and the softness, drape of the good old turned twill the best.
Cheryl Schwarz
Cheryl Schwarz
I'm starting my Turned Twill project, and I'm having quite a time with floats. It seems that. my first treadle, which is shafts 1, 5, 6, 7 I have a problem as the thread on the 8th shaft doesn't fall down. I've tried changing the shed with the beater at the fell like and my tension high, and consistent across the warp. This is my first 8 shaft project on my 45" Nilus II Jack loom. I was so excited to give Turned Twill a go, but now it is really slow to weave as I'm checking the shed a lot and also doing a fair bit of unweaving. I think I now know why people love their Countermarche looms. Before this I hadn't seen the issues with the bottom threads being loose. I've even done a double width blanket, and had very few problems (only 4 shafts though) Other than checking a lot I'm not sure there is much I can do?
I have just would on the warp for this project, and the bouts are showing a regular decrease in length from one side to the next :
Should I unwind and rebeam ?