I think I've been overthinking this. My big roadblock was trying to figure out my epi for each section and warp color order. Now that I've done that I can establish the number of ends and colors for each crammed and open sections. Thank you! More to come.
S3-Episode 2 - Cramming & Denting
Season 3 - Pushing the Boundaries of PW
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Sandra, I don';t know if you saw my last posting prior to the previous one. Could you please look at it and give me your response? It has attached images.
thanks, Diane
Every time you change the sett, it affects your width in reed as well as your finished width after washing. The recommended sett for 16/2 linen in the Master Sett Chart is 15 epi/ppi and the only way you are going to get the width you need for your curtains is to sample - which you are doing. Your question was whether the width of your cloth changed every time you changed your sett and the answer is yes.
Thanks Sandra. I’m relenting my reed and opening up my sett more in the very open areas. I think this will give me what I’m looking for. I thought I had started with a wide enough width but hadn’t factored in the amount of change that would occur with the denting.
Diane
Hello there. I purchased the line kit for cramming and denting. With fear and trepidation I’ve just embarked on wrapping the warp. Was SO excited to get it on the loom that I forgot to tie my crosses. So - other than being very embarrassed, I want to know if I have enough linen on each cone to start over, rather than try to recreate the cross on lease sticks. Sigh.
Hi Sandra,
Just another student here,, but my suggestion is this:
As long as you keep all the warp threads parallel, you should be able to still use your warp.
I would lie out the threads in order the best you can, on a flat surface. Keep all your other ties in place. Then use a pice of masking tape across the laid out threads to keep them ‘in order’. Thread your reed, taking each thread off the tape one at a time, the first step in warping front to back.
Don’t worry too much about threads being crossed, as long as they aren’t looped and tied. Once you apply tension to your warp ( after it’s been threaded through the heddles and tied onto the back beam) all the threads should line up.
Good luck !
Thank you. Joslyn, do you warp front to back?
Joslyn -I just reread your comment got saw the F to B in there. I wonder if I can make this work. Or is it the weaving Kami telling me I’m not ready for linen yet?🥴
I usually warp back to front, but really there isn’t that much of a difference- if you can do one, you can do the other.
Just thread your reed ( it doesn’t even need to be at the loom- just prop it so it lies upright on a table. Between a couple of book or heat cans)
Then thread your heddles- the warp and reed will be at the front of the loom, you will sit in the back of it.
Then tie on to the back beam just like you would tie on to your front beam - either with larks head knots, or by lashing.
Then wind your warp on. The reed acts as your raddle to keep the warp separated.
And then tie on to the front beam.
You can do it!
Thank you. I appreciate the encouragement.
Joslyn