Add your comments, questions and answers in this Forum thread.
Add your comments, questions and answers in this Forum thread.
When you have more than 1 reed size at your disposal but still have to use odd denting for desired epi, do you have a suggestion as to how to choose one that would result in minimal reed marks?
For instance for 18epi, would 1,2,12 in a 12 dent result in fewer reed marks than 2,2,2,3 in an 8 dent?
I've already sampled the color & weave gamp in 10dent at 2,2,2,2,1 for 18epi (even tho that's not on your reed substitution chart) and didnt like the reed marks disturbing the color sequences, but haven't wet finished it yet.
Just wondered if shorter denting sequences might result in less reed marks. 🙂
Good morning, Donna. If your sett is 18 epi you would use 17 1/2 in the 10 dent reed column of Jane's Reed Substitution Chart, 1-2-2-2, repeat. Close, in this case, is good enough. You added an extra "2" in your repeating sequence. The results would be the same with the other 2 reed sizes you suggested. You'll be surprised at how much movement there is in your sample when you finish it, and it will look wonderful. Reed marks don't normally show up until after you have finished a sample and it has been dried and pressed. What you are seeing in your cloth, as it comes off the loom, is normal before wet finishing.
Hi there, I hope this is the correct thread...
I recently adopted a loom and the sectional backbeam came with a LOT of yarn on it. The loom had been unused and in storage for quite a while, so I can only guess what the thread is. It looks in good condition, and I believe it is a 5/2 cotton. The yarn is wound at 20 ends per 2" space in the sectional. I am new to weaving, so I figured, in order to get the warp to go straight from the sectional back beam to the front, I should sley at one per dent, the reed is a 10, needless to say this is not correct for the yarn.
SO, I'm trying to figure out how to re-sley. (I've threaded a straight draw in hopes of weaving some twill.) If I change to a 17.5 epi (the 1-2-2-2 pattern), the yarn will end up pretty angled from the back (wider from the back beam to narrower at the reed) which I assume will not be good for tension...
A friend has suggested winding on to the front beam, and then back onto the back beam at a more appropriate width, but I feel like that won't be great for the yarn, rubbing back and forth through the heddles. However, I'm not sure I have any other options.
(I adopted this loom from a clothing designer, I have no clue what she was making, or even if this sectional beam originally went to this loom, and neither does she, lol.)
I hope this makes sense, and I appreciate any advice/suggestions!
Thanks,
Ellen
Sorry, Ellen - when it comes to sectional loom advice - all of us connected with JST, are not users of sectional looms and therefore are not the folks that can help you. Hopefully, member of our large “family” of weavers, will spot your question and be able to give you some advice. What might be helpful to anyone with the knowledge to help you, would be to know what brand of loom you’ve adopted!
Ah, bummer! But thanks for the reply. This is a Gilmore loom. I'm not sure how well known they are, but they're pretty popular around here (central coast of California). Thanks again!
Why don’t you start a thread with, for instance…. Help with a Gilmore Sectional Loom ….. or something similar in the title. Maybe someone who has that loom might pop in with an answer for you.
Hi Ellen,
I also own a Gilmore 4 shaft loom. I can’t help you with the sectional question but I will say that Gilmore Looms is still in business and they may be able to answer your question or point you in the right direction. I’ve spoken with them a couple of times and they have been very helpful.
All the best,
Fata
Thanks Fata,
Yes, agreed, they are really quite nice at Gilmore. I posed the EPI question to a facebook group and got a bunch of suggestions, so I think I'm okay!
Take care!
Sandra, thanks for the suggestion! I don't think the type of loom is particularly important to the actual question. It's just an EPI/sett/weaving question. But I got some good advice on a Facebook group. Thanks again!
Hi,
I wanted to weave a sample to explore the fabrics you get with 8/2 cotton at different setts ranging from 12 epi to 20 epi, like Jane shows us, but I want to feel the fabric for myself. I'll probably do a similar thing with 8/4 cotton.
Here's the question, what size of sample is big enough to experience the hand of the fabric and determine things like shrinkage? I want to make samples big enough to get a good feel for the fabric, but I'm also on a budget and yarn used in a sample, which will stay a sample, is yarn which can't be used to weave a garment, etc. What size sample do you suggest?
What a great idea, Vicki! Why not put on a warp long enough to have useable items - tea towels or napkins and then use them - maybe embroidering the sett number in a corner - because you will forget ;-). I literally just went through a drawer full of tea towels and napkins, some woven at around 20 epi (we often wove 8/2 cotton at that sett back in the day). The ones at 20 epi are no longer going to live in my towel drawer - they are much stiffer than when first woven because they have made countless trips through the washer and dryer. You are going to have loom waste with your warp - why not spread it out over a warp long enough to have useable samples. Keep us posted on your journey into sett!
Related to Donna's original question -- is it worth getting a 12 dent reed if I already have a 10 dent reed? Seems like Jane does a lot of things at 18 epi so maybe it would be worth getting the extra reed.
It never hurts to have more than I reed, Keith. Weavers tend to collect a “stable” of them 😉