Hi Diana,
I am hesitant to reply and and have chewed on this answer for a while before attempting to give you some of my musings on the subject. So, I have some observations which might or might not help you. Also I don't want to sound as if I am giving Schacht a negative feedback. OK? Right - here goes.
I believe it is your loom being the source of your frustration and not the operator! ThatLoganChick has some great advice for you on the matter. I might also be able to throw a few general observations that are in a similar vein.
I might stress that my observations come from owning a Mighty Wolf loom. So some discrepancies between the two looms might exist.
1. I have found that if your texsolve chords attached to the front cloth beam or your back warping beam need to be exactly even. Even one slot difference makes for a huge discrepancy when you come to the middle of your weaving - especially if it is a long warp.
2. Look at the structure of your loom. Notice that the break and warping handle are on one side. This means that when you are winding the warp (especially on a Mighty Wolf which is a wider loom) the delivery of the winding is turning the warp beam which is horizontal - and the beam turns fractionally more tightly closer to the handle than the furthest distance from the handle. So the warp is ever so fractionally looser on the left hand side. To mitigate this whilst winding on your warp you need to manually apply some tension on the left hand side of the warp ( if not the whole of the warp) so as to get a more even wind on.
3. When you are weaving and advance your warp ensure that your warp handle is not engaged in the winding position as this produces an uneven tension loss when you release the break.
4. Do you use metal heddles? If you do, do you habitually leave some of these heddles that are unused on the left hand side of the shafts? Look at the structure of the loom. The 'Jack' mechanism pushes up the shaft and if it is heavier on one side of that central jack than the shaft will have less resistance on one side as opposed to the other side. so the shaft can tilt a little. If you have metal heddles then the threads through the eyes will have different tensions with this tilt. This can make a difference the further you weave especially if the thread has the ability to 'stretch'. Maybe using texsolve heddles might help.
5. the shafts have a tendency to rise unevenly so that some threads are placed under different tensions from this alone.
6. The cloth beam also has its tension mechanism on one side and it is crucial that the chords to the tie up 'stick' is exactly even.
7. take care when tensioning your fell. Try to develop a 'muscle memory' that means you are not increasing the tension to different levels when you advance your warp ( this I still have not managed to achieve myself) as the fell will always have a tendency to tighten on the right before the left hand side. This is exacerbated by too much tension.
Anyway, I probably could go on, and on, about this frustration. But I think that I have made a fair fist at some observations which have been a source of frustration for myself.
My final word on the subject is - don't beat up on yourself about it! Take the tension out of it!!!
I know. Easier said than done.
Good luck.
