Thank you so much for your great 'warping the louet Spring' and the 'new spring II features' youtube videos. they are immensely helpful. I am just starting my first project, 8 shaft truned twill towels, on my new Spring II loom.

I have a few questions:

Does the tension brake require adjustments like shown with the Spring I?

I find that I have to make major adjustments to the floating breast beam each time I advance the warp? I seem to spend more time on the floor adjusting the position of the floating breast beam texsovl cords than weaving.

Should the floating breast beam texsolv cords be attached when tying on the warp?

Thanks so much for you assistance.
Judy

Yes, the floating breast beam texsolv cords should be attached while tying on the warp. After the initial adjustment you shouldn’t need to touch those cords again. To adjust the tension of the floating breast beam, release the brake, then use the crank handle to adjust the tension (or, alternatively, wind the cloth beam with your hands). There is no need to adjust the texsolv of the breast beam.

Thanks for your reply. I just wound the cloth beam with my hands. The floating breast beam no longer floats and the texsolv cords are in need of adjustment. Any ideas why this is happening?
Thanks again.

What position are the breast beam uprights in when you have tensioned the warp to your liking? They should be completely vertical, not leaning in or out but be straight up and down. Then when you open a shed the breast beam should move slightly inward towards the castle of the loom, creating a gentle angle to the uprights.

When there is no warp on the loom, the longer cords that attach at the very bottom of the breast beam uprights should be loose, with slack in them, as should the short cords that prevent the beam from moving too far. The uprights should naturally level themselves to a vertical position.

Basically, you want your uprights to be completely vertical, except when you have just opened a shed. And the only time you need to adjust your texsolv cords is when you first get and set up the loom. So I’m not sure what is going on with your loom. When I loopk at mine, I have two or three empty holes in the texsolv past the screw attachment to the end of the cord, and have never needed further adjustment. How many empty holes are on yours past the screw, to the end of the cord?

I am not sure, but here might be a misunderstanding between spring cords and front post cords.
I am quoting from the Spring II user manual.p19:

The spring cords must be loosened from the floating arms of the breast beam. The breast beam is then blocked with the cords that connect the floating arms to the front post.
If the breast beam is springy when tying the warp, the warp threads cannot be tensioned evenly.

Yes, the cords that connect to the springs must be loose (connected, but hanging with slack on them, bowing downward) when in rest position without a warp on. The springs are not in play when there is no warp on the loom.

When you tie your warp and tension it, the breast beam will be affected by that tensioning, and the springs will come into play. Each time you re-tension your warp (ie - advance the warp) the springs come into play. Leave everything attached while tensioning.

The cords that connect the floating arms to the front posts are there to stop the floating arms from moving too far when you apply tension to the warp, but also from flopping about too much while there is nothing on the loom. The ideal position of the floating arms is true vertical, in line with the front of the upright posts.

Many thanks to both of you. I think I understand now!

Many thanks to both of you. I think I understand now!

I am currently weaving my first warp on my new Spring 11. .It is the Season 6 turned twill. My floating breast beam is moving in an opposite direction than described above. When I open a shed, I.e. depress a treadle, the upright that is perfectly vertical moves outward and swings back to its neutral position when the shed is closed. Did I install this incorrectly? Also I have the fifth hole on the screw as directed in the set up video. It does seem to provide the warp tension I need. BTW I love this loom!!! Best ever! Sue Parry

Thank you! Any recommendations on how to know if the tension is correct for a particular warp? It seems to be a mystery.