Hi There, that is difficult to advise on. After you wound on your warp, did you notice that the selvedges were a lot longer when you cut the ends to thread. If they were that means the selvedges wound around the warp beam at a higher tension than everything else which means those warp ends are now shorter. If you didn’t notice much of a difference I would keep going and they will probably ease off as you go forward. If they were a lot shorter you might need to re-beam and even out the tension on the whole warp.

Yep, if you don’t take the toggle off you have to go to the back of the loom every time you want to advance. The toggle is great when winding on but you don’t need it once the warp is all on. :)

The L shaped metal piece is on the front beam and you need that engaged to advance your warp. On the back beam ratchet there is also a toggle and when you are winding on you engage it in the ratchet so you can tension your warp without pulling it off. But once the warp is wound on you disengage that toggle so that when you lift up on the brake hand the beam can release. Which springs are popping off, the long ones that are attached to the floating breast beam via the texsolv or the spring on the brake. If it is the spring on the brake you are lifting up on the handle too high. I can’t think of anything that would make the long ones fall off.

I'm sure you did a great job with your assembly....you just don't have to lift the brake handle so high. You must have a Spring II if you don't have a ratchet on the back beam, so all is good. You don't need one because you have the new improved friction brake :)
Louet puts those little eye screws on for the lease sticks. I like my lease sticks up like I have them in the videos, much easier on the back. But, you can use those to attach a string to and run it through your roll of paper to keep it off the floor. Hope this helps and happy weaving.